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FOX Knives Japanese sharpener water stone
Description
Japanese water stones – both natural and synthetic – are known for their superior sharpening performance, not only for Japanese tools, but also on their Western equivalents. The loosely bonded abrasive grit is washed out very quickly, as it blunts during the sharpening process; this exposes new, sharp, particles that can get to work on the blade. Water stones are lubricated only with water! Never use oil!
These synthetic water stones are available in single grit or double grit options:
- Grain 280 - dimensions 16.20x5x1.7 cm
- Grain 1000 - dimensions 16.40x5x1.7 cm
- Grain 3000 - dimensions 18.50x6.5x2 cm
- Combined grain, two sided stone 280/1000 - 18x5x2.4 cm
Made in Japan.
Which grain (grit) to choose?
- Japanese water stones with a coarse grit (approx. 100 to 400) are perfectly suitable for sharpening knives that are extremely dull. The coarse grit helps you to get the knives back to their correct shape (V-shape). However, we do recommend that you use a finer stone to polish it afterwards as this produces a thicker structure and therefore better cutting performance for a much longer period of time. Coarse grits are also ideal for thinning new blades making them meet with less resistance when cutting.
- Finer Japanese water stones (grain 600 to 1,000) are ideal for retaining the sharpness of your knives and for providing a finer finish to edges that have first been sharpened with a coarser grit water stone. The sharpness achieved is more than satisfactory for many users and is often better than new knives straight from the factory and also much better and more durable than the sharpness attained from simple pull-through sharpening machines.
- Extremely fine grit water stones (grain 3,000 to 10,000) are perfect for polishing knives. These stones produce a razor-sharp edge and what's more, they retain their sharpness for a longer period of time. We recommend that you first sharpen your knives using a coarser grit stone (see Retaining sharpness) since the finer grit stone removes very little material.
Japanese water stones have a reputation for enabling rapid sharpening. The loosely bonded grit is washed out rapidly as it becomes blunt to give way to new, sharp abrasive material.
Water stones require water to perform their magic! Never use oil, it will ruin your stone. Never expose wet stones to temperatures below 0 °C – they may crack. Never leave Japanese water stones in water for any length of time.
Soak your sharpening stone in water before you use it – five minutes is usually enough, ten minutes is acceptable for coarse stones. For sharpening, rest the stone on a non-slip base or wedge it firmly between two pieces of wood. Use as much of the stone’s surface as possible; this will postpone as long as possible the inevitable dishing effect. Although the slurry formed by grinding should be rinsed off regularly, it can be left on at the stage where you need a finer sharpening effect – as with a finer stone, which is useful towards the end of the sharpening process. Before changing to a finer stone, clean the tools to avoid transferring coarse grit to the next step of the sharpening process.
Select a stone fit for purpose. Consider these guidelines:- For coarse work – grinding out notches or starting on a very blunt tool – a 120 to 400 grit grade stone is recommended.
- For ordinary sharpening the right stone should be in the range of 700 to 2000 grit grade.
- To hone away fine burrs and to polish surfaces, use a 3000 to 12000 grit grade stone.
The whetstone must be flat. A worn stone that has become concave will never give a good result. A concave stone must be flattened before you can use it. Japanese water stones are easy to flatten because the bonding material is relatively soft. This of course is the reason why they must be flattened more often. There are various ways of doing this:
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Rubbing two stones together is the oldest and most popular method. The stones should be wet, ie, soaked in water for several minutes beforehand.
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Take a flattening stone specially manufactured for the purpose, dribble a little water onto its surface, add a teaspoonful of silicon carbide powder, and get to work on the stone using circular movements under slight pressure.
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A third possibility is to use wet waterproof sandpaper that will cling to a plate of glass or other plane surface. If the stone is very dished start with a grit grade of 80 or 120 and change to a finer grade as the surface improves. Again you can add silicon carbide powder to halve the reconditioning time.
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After flattening the stone rinse it thoroughly under running water to avoid any cross contamination by coarser grit that may result in unwelcome scratches on your blades during subsequent sharpening.
Important note for combination stones: Because the Japanese stones derive much of their effectiveness from the fact that the grit is only loosely bonded, it is only logical that the glue holding the stones together cannot be bombproof – it is not at all uncommon for combination stones to come apart. This is no reason to file a complaint or return the product. Simply take a water-resistant household glue and stick the two halves back together, or leave them separate and use them as regular, single-grit stones.
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